Georgia's waterway route - Southwinds, August 2001

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Georgia's waterway route
By Karen Dodd

One of the shortest water-bordered states you cross when going from the Chesapeake to the Florida Keys is Georgia. To look at a road map of the state with its super highways, you'd think it a breeze to cruise straight through. I've often heard the experienced sailor chastising the route, then opting for an outside passage while bypassing some of the most challenging sounds, beautiful winding rivers, enchanting cities, and quiet anchorages. The Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) enters Georgia at the Savannah River and winds approximately 137 miles through marshes, around islands, up rivers, under bridges, and over mud flats and wide temperamental sounds.
It normally takes us three days to travel across the state depending on whether we stop at Thunderbolt, the Herb River, New Teakettle Creek, Ft. Frederica or Jekyll Island. On our last trip we tied up at Isle of Hope Marina, catching a bus into Savannah while we waited out the weather. You have many options, each dependent on your traveling mood. Hospitality at the Palmer Johnson Marina provides you with a newspaper and Krispy Kreme doughnuts for breakfast. The marina is within walking distance to good restaurants and the Savannah city bus route. On another trip the Herb River offered us fresh trout for the catching. I thought they were still jumping when I put them on the dinner plate. Go a bit farther and you can tie up at the Isle of Hope Marina face dock. They are doing some major renovating with the new showers and heads, laundry and deck for sitting while you wait. The town is a nice walk, and marina staff offers you a lift to grocery and restaurants. We took our fold-up cart, and hauling the groceries back was no problem. The town deserves a farther stroll to enjoy the charming homes and flowers. When you have been aboard for several days running, either of these stops will provide a needed respite.

Georgia's ICW route provides an alternative to the offshore passage between Florida and the Carolinas.
Karen Dodd photo

After your first night in the state, don't miss Moon River. A lot of new houses in the area have stolen the impact of seeing it for the first time, but you can't help humming a few notes as you pass by. We joined several other boats in New Teakettle Creek one night. Pull out the screens before it gets dark. The no-seeums are heavy during the peak traveling months especially when the wind dies down in the evening. Be wary of the Ogeechee River. A thunderstorm caught us one evening; water pelted down on us. Hell Gate's name was fully appreciated by the time we cleared the last mark. As I tried to haul in the head sail, the wind gusts pulled the sheets from my hands in seconds. I spent 30 minutes after the storm passed untangling the mess of lines.

Georgia's ICW coastline
Karen Dodd photo

     You never know how St. Catherines or Sapelo sounds or the Altamaha River will act. Mind the current and the wind before you venture across them. This journey of the ICW can give you a lot of respect for large inland bodies of water.
     Last trip north we took an alternate route along the Frederica River. The Frederica splits off the waterway and rejoins it later just above St. Simons. We found the water depth good the whole distance. There isn't too much difference in miles, and new places are always interesting. We anchored off the old Fort Park area and swung with the current until the fog lifted the next day. It's quiet there and well- sheltered. You wonder how the British ever found this spot to defend. There didn't seem any safe way to get ashore so we left the site for another trip when they rebuild the visitor's dock.
     There are a lot of places to stay in the Brunswick area. Rental cars are available for a run home or to the store. One of the most popular stops is the Jekyll Island Marina just under the bridge heading south to St. Andrew Sound. There is a small grocery and drugstore with an ATM within walking distance. The marina has a restaurant, pool, laundry and clean showers.
     Porpoises follow you around the island as you leave so have your cameras ready. I hope the St. Andrew Sound is quiet; otherwise you can try Umbrella Cut. We've taken it three times now; it always has surprises for us. We take it on a high tide, and the grasses and smooth waterways flush you through the winding route.
     If you've never done the Georgia ICW but are planning your next trip, study your charts. Be mindful that the ICW strip chart book doesn't always have latitude and longitude, so depending on your GPS for the right turnoffs can be a problem.
     Talk with locals, fellow travelers, and keep your charts accessible. Following the guy ahead can prove problematic if he's going the wrong way. We've seen a lot of boats speeding past us put on their brakes and reverse when they either ran out of water or discovered their mistake. Cruising Georgia's waters takes a sense of adventure, a good knowledge of charts and appreciation of the scenic route.

Karen and her husband Denton Dodd formerly owned a 32-foot cutter-rigged Bayfield. They now cruise the waterways in an Albin trawler when not at their home in New Bern, NC.

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