Forty-eight miles is an average commute for suburban dwellers. Some jogger's training schedule may easily cover this much ground in a week. But when that distance is measured by crossing open water, the miles seem longer and the required preparation more elaborate. A trip by boat from South Florida to Bimini will cover some 48 miles, most of which is under the dominating influence of the Gulf Stream. The Stream--several thousand feet deep and moving at up to three knots through the Florida Straits--presents a physical and psychological obstacle to travel to Bimini.
        The distance and strong ocean current are well known. But the legends of the "Bermuda Triangle" add another facet to the physiological barriers of open ocean and deep water.

The crossing cannot be hurried.

Mystique aside, the circumstances of the trip are real enough. There are accurate charts, and the crossing is made repeatedly without mishap by properly prepared boats . There are no reasons to be intimidated by the trip. It can be done safely. You will need the ability to fix a position, plot a course based on the set of the current, then steer the course to reach the right destination in the Bahamas.
        Study NOAA's chart 26320 or Chart #38 of the waterproof series. All of the dimensions of the physical problems are there. Use your piloting skills, plot the course, review it for oversights and errors, then stick to it. Prepare for the trip as if your life depended on it.
        Sailing offshore, even in a heavily traveled area, is still full of risk. Some suggestions: Travel in a flotilla, carry plenty of spare fuel, use a dual engine boat if powering across or have sailing capability and a reliable auxiliary engine. Having drinking water for the entire crew for four days, signaling devices for both day and night, and offshore personal flotation devices are a must.
        The weather is the single most important factor to consider in a crossing from the U.S. to the Bahamas. Storms or fronts with wind direction in opposition to the north-flowing Stream will quickly bring seas in excess of ten feet, and winds out of the south can produce seven to eight-foot swells. Consult a pilot chart for the time of year you want to cross. Listen to the NOAA marine forecasts, updated four times each day, which give specific details for the crossing route. Take note of wind direction, sea conditions, and forecast changes. If the weather turns bad or threatens, change your plans, stay inshore, and enjoy the time in local waters. The crossing cannot be hurried. Bracing salt spray and waves washing over the bow may be fun if you are ready for it, but 12 to 24 hours of it is punishing, can be damaging to a well-found vessel, and generally is unnecessary. Avoid it. Plan ahead, and be flexible.
        All systems on the boat need to be checked and rechecked-engine,

Your arrival at midday or later allows a good view of the markers.

rigging, through-hulls, fuel filters, navigation lights, etc. File a float plan with someone at stateside. Give them your destination, expected time of arrival, a telephone number at the destination if available, name and description of your vessel, and names of the crew. Then set a cutoff time that if they don't hear from you by a certain day and hour, the float plan will be reported to the Coast Guard. The same applies to your return trip.
        When to leave? How long will it take? Because of differing circumstances on the Miami and Bimini sides of the trip, you have several departure time options. A popular embarkation time from Miami is midnight. This departure time usually allows for calmer winds and seas, navigation after dark in known channels, and the bulk of the crossing being done during the coolest part of the day. And because the entrance to the beachfront channel at Bimini is marked by a range marker, your arrival at midday or later allows a good view of the markers.
        Being offshore upon a fabled sea, out of the sight of land, can be exciting, although the total time you will be out of the sight of land depends on visibility and your boat's speed. The low-lying Bimini group is often visible seven miles out to sea. Miami's taller skyline can be picked up about fifteen to twenty miles offshore, and at night the city's lights can reflect off clouds and be seen for the entire trip. But for this discussion, the time you are out of sight of land or buildings is about 20-25 miles, divided by your speed over ground or course made good.
        The anxious passagemaker can benefit from this time by an empty horizon...with nothing visible on the horizon, the urge to rush seems to

Bimini is a popular weekend destination, so unless you are planning on anchoring out, you will need to have reservations.

goes away. You tend to relax and enjoy the time and place, not stare at an object on the horizon.
        Bimini is a foreign country. You must seek the permission of its government to enter. On your approach you need to fly the international Q flag. This solid yellow flag is available at marine stores, and while you're at it, get the Bahamian courtesy flag. If you have made reservations, approach the dock at the marina with the Q flag flying. If you plan to anchor out, use the docks behind the pink customs building.
        Bimini is a popular weekend destination, so unless you are planning on anchoring out, you will need to have reservations if you expect to find dock space. There are four marinas to choose from on North Bimini: Wheech's Dock (242) 347-3028; Bimini Blue Water Resort (242) 347-3166 or (800) 688-4752; Bimini Big Game Club (242) 347-3391 or (800) 327-4149; and Sea Crest Hotel & Marina (242) 347-2227.

        For clearance you will need the vessel's documents or state registration and proof of citizenship for each person onboard. The proof of citizenship can be a valid passport, a certified birth certificate (having an embossed or raised seal) or military discharge papers. The birth certificate and military papers will also require a government- issued photo ID to verify the document.
        If you arrive at a marina, the dockmaster will have the proper forms. No one other than the skipper is allowed to leave the vessel until the boat and the crew have cleared. If you arrive at the customs pier, the skipper can get the forms inside the customs building and return to the vessel to complete them. Customs wants to know if you are bringing freight into the country. For cruisers, the answer should be no. The only things you are bringing are personal effects for your own use and consumption. Immigrations also needs to know your reason for entry, intended length of stay, and where you plan to stay. The questions are straightforward.
        The fee for a cruising permit is $10 during normal business hours 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Monday through Friday. If you make landfall after hours, the customs officer can be called out, but there are overtime charges for this service. The charges vary with the circumstances, including the rank of the official who responds. The same applies to immigration staff.
        Weapons are a special case. You are allowed to keep them on your boat. If you do, the serial number and ammunition count for each gun must be

Leaving Bimini during the night is difficult because the channel along South Bimini is unmarked.

provided to customs. The weapons cannot be taken off the boat.
        After customs, you go next door to clear immigrations. The completed forms and proof of citizenship are reviewed. If all is in order, a few initials and rubber stamps later you can return to the vessel and replace the yellow quarantine flag with a hoist of the Bahamian courtesy flag.

The return trip

After all the fun and "gin-clear waters," you must head back to Florida. Here are a few thing to consider. Leaving Bimini during the night is difficult because the channel along South Bimini is unmarked, and the range markers have no lights. The most popular departure is at dawn.
        With predominate easterly winds in the region, the trip back to the U.S. is typically before a quartering sea. You lose sight of Bimini about seven miles offshore, pass through the zone of open horizon and then the buildings of Miami will appear on the northwest horizon. But aren't we too far south? Keep your course. The temptation to turn to the north, towards the buildings is strong. But so is the north-flowing current. A check of the charts shows the current flow on the eastern edge of the Stream is less intense than on the western edge. Don't let the skyline of the city draw you off course.
        All of this is relative to your boat's speed. Slower moving, lightly-powered sailboats need to pay special heed to this discussion. Power cruisers are still wise to steer a careful course, or waste fuel. Plot your course carefully and check your calculations. Once you're satisfied that the course is correct, adhere to it.
        The Jan/Feb '98 issue of Ocean Navigator had an article titled "Crossing An Ocean Current." In it are several examples, from the worst to the best courses, and a simple compromise. No one wants the worst,

You should have previously purchased a vessel clearance decal from the U.S. Customs.

and few may have the onboard computing power to calculate the best, so let's look at the alternative. The compromise course, typical of pre-electronic navigation, is a vector diagram based on estimated current, set, drift, and boat speed.
        This calculated heading, when steered to by an accurate compass, will get you to the destination. Initially, this course will take you away from the rhumb line, which may be unsettling for the novice navigator, but it will get you close. The final corrections can be made away from the most powerful influences of the Stream. Monitor your progress by taking an hourly fix, GPS or Loran readings, and plot those positions.
        With Miami in sight, prepare to clear back in to the United States. You've left the country and will now need to clear customs and immigrations. If your vessel is 30 feet or longer, you should have previously purchased a vessel clearance decal from U.S. Customs. There is a $25 fee for this decal (issued for the calendar year), which will facilitate the return clearance. At the 12-mile limit you need to raise the "Q" flag, proceed to your dock, and call Customs (800-432-1216 in the Miami area).
        You will need your vessel's documents, the decal number, and a list of the crew and their proof of citizenship (either a valid passport or a certified birth certificate). You need to declare the last foreign port of call and what items you are bringing back. Check with U.S. Customs for the dollar amounts and limitations on their Web site: www.customs.ustreas.gov.
        The procedure is similar to the entry at Bimini as only the captain can leave the vessel to make the call. Welcome back. With good planning, patience, and some luck, you have safely crossed the Gulf Stream...twice. And the only consequence may be a new appetite for bluewater passagemaking.