When considering improvements aboard our boats, the projects that come to mind most often are such items as additional sail-handling gear or canvas, cabinetry, a generator, or sophisticated electronics. But how about the appearance of the boat?
    The exterior can be enhanced in several ways - adding painted or vinyl graphics, changing the color of the stripes, refinishing the wood, or by polishing the smooth fiberglass areas of the deck and hull. Of these possibilities, the least costly option that will improve the appearance of the exterior is a good polish job.  Unfortunately, polishing a boat is hot, hard work.
   Some skippers neither polish their own boats nor hire this service.  The result is a greatly reduced life expectancy of the gelcoat due to oxidation.  Oxidation is a chalky powder that is produced when ultraviolet radiation from the sun is allowed to destroy an unprotected gelcoat surface.  The hard-shell protection of a layer of wax on the surface of the gelcoat can prevent this oxidation from occurring.  The pity is that the gelcoat provides not only a high gloss but also UV protection of the fiberglass beneath, so if the gelcoat is permitted to oxidize completely, no protection remains for the fiberglass.
  If you own a new boat, it will remain new looking indefinitely if the boat is washed every two weeks and polished at least twice a year.  If you own an older boat, this same routine is recommended provided that at least some gelcoat still exists; the boat won't look new, but it can look great.  If the gelcoat is completely oxidized, no manner of polishing will restore the original shine.  Polishing will, however, seal the surface of the fiberglass and offer a minimum of protection from the sun's damaging ultraviolet rays.
   In an effort to contain maintenance costs, many skippers polish their own boats instead of contracting for this service.  And, given proper instruction, tools and supplies, most people should expect to see a satisfying result.  The biggest obstacle to a successful polishing job is a psychological one: A boat hull can loom very large when viewed from the perspective of a seat on the dock. A typical 35-footer will seem huge when the bow cannot be seen from a position at the stern.  In addition, the deck can appear to be the size of a football field when we are on our hands and knees.

   To begin the compounding phase, place the buffer pad as flat to the hull as possible before turning on the buffer. This will prevent the polishing material from being thrown onto areas such as the nonskid or exterior wood that is not to be polished. With the buffer set to a low speed, spread the compound over an area approximately two feet square using a side-to-side motion (Fig. 3). When the buffing pad becomes clogged with compound, turn on the buffer while holding the end of the paint stirring stick against the pad. Move the stick back and forth (Fig. 4) several times from the center to the edge while the pad is rotating.
    This process is repeated as many times as needed until the entire boat has been compounded. Be certain to work the compound while it is damp; if allowed to dry prematurely, the compound material is difficult to use and will not produce the result it should.
    Of all the cautions that might be stated, the one that must be noted above all others is this: Do not place too much pressure on the rotating buffer pad. If more than moderate pressure is brought to bear, the result will be damage to the gelcoat. This damage, referred to as "burning," is the complete removal of the gelcoat. If this occurs, the fiberglass will be plainly visible, and the only remedy is to have a specialist repair the gelcoat. As you might guess, this repair can be more costly than hiring a skilled professional to do the work for you.
    Once the hull has been compounded, it is time to apply the wax and complete the work with a final polish. For this phase, no machine is used. The general consensus at most service companies is that an electric buffer is to be used only for compounding and not for wax polishing. The thinking here is that wax should represent a final finish, and a buffer should be unnecessary if the surface has been prepared properly to this point.
    The wax is applied by placing a small quantity of paste or liquid wax on a clean cloth (Fig.5) and rubbing it onto an area about two feet square. With a circular motion, spread the wax evenly (Fig. 6). The wax should cover the surface, of course, but it should be a very thin layer of material.

   Truly, this is not a glamorous job, but if you decide to do this yourself, some assistance will help make the result more professional.
   First, some definitions are in order.  Compound is a paste that contains an abrasive; it is used to remove oxidation and smooth the surface of the gelcoat.  Wax, whether paste or liquid, is the stuff that makes the gelcoat shine.  Polishing is the activity that puts these materials to use and ultimately results in a gloss surface.
   As you might expect, there are several makers of compounds and waxes-3M, Meguiars and Star brite to name a few.  But regardless of the brand, application is the key.  As long as the material inside the bottle is a marine grade, the results should be good.
   The process is begun with a thorough wash of the fiberglass surface. This wash will remove minor stains, pollution, and dirt as well as light to moderate amounts of oxidation.  The boat must be allowed to dry completely before proceeding.  If moderate levels of oxidation are present, an abrasive compound will be required in addition to a wax.  Essentially, this means that the boat will be polished twice, once to compound and once to wax.
   Almost without exception, there will be isolated spots such as docking marks or stains that will need to be removed with compound.  In addition, irregularities in the surface shine will require compound in order to eliminate "flat spots" in the gelcoat; wax alone will typically not produce the best results.  If only small areas will need to be compounded, the compound material can be used on a rough cloth such as a terry cloth towel.  If large areas are to be treated, an electric buffer should be considered a necessary tool.
  After the boat has been washed and allowed to dry, begin the process of compounding by placing a small amount of material on the pad of a heavy duty eight-inch buffer such as those made by Makita or Porter Cable.  This is facilitated by the use of a paint stirring stick (Fig. 1). NOTE: A buffer made for automobiles has neither the speed nor the power required for compounding.