Exploring Cuba's north coast - a cruiser's wonderland

By Doran Cushing - Editor, Southwinds Magazine

Precious few spots on earth remain unspoiled. Yet, the translucent blue waters and secluded cays hugging the northwestern shore of Cuba breathe fresh meaning into the spirit of "unspoiled." Historic Havana adds a touch of old world charm to this natural beauty.
        This story is about Cuba. Not only the pleasures of a memorable cruise, but also the discovery of new friends and unforgettable experiences in this tropical island nation.

How did I get there?

The seed was planted seven years ago, while cruising through the Western Caribbean aboard Panache. This "seed," a desire to visit Cuba, came from my sailing companions who were French, German, Canadian, English -- their boats were heading for Cuba from Mexico, Guatemala, and the Bay Islands of Honduras.
        They went. I couldn't. The year was 1990, and I felt intimidated by the government -- my government, not Cuba's. We had heard the threats by U.S. Customs of boat seizures and fines. I soon returned to Florida, but the desire didn't die.
        Fast forward to 1991. I kept hearing of Americans sailing and travelling to this forbidden fruit just across the Gulf Stream. The cruising newsletters told of mostly European sailors discovering Cuba's charm, while Americans had to conceal any voyages to our southern neighbor.
        As the muggy summer of '92 approached, the seed sprouted. I'd heard nothing but rave reviews about the people and the experience. Our government was still frowning upon such activities (and still is). Get the facts, I said, call The Government.
        For Cuba, the facts come from the Treasury Department, Bureau of Foreign Assets Control, Cuba Section. Fact -- it is not illegal for Americans to go to Cuba. Fact -- it is a violation of the embargo to spend dollars in Cuba. Fact -- dollars are the currency upon which the Cuban tourist industry thrives.
        OK, but what about all those athletes who competed at the Pan Am Games? What about our occasional news reports from Havana? What about my college professor's trip to the conference in Old Havana?
        Loopholes, excuse me, exceptions to the embargo, permit some Americans to travel more freely to Cuba and spend money. Officially, embargo exceptions exist for journalists, researchers, guests of the Cuban government, and those having family in Cuba.
        In a nutshell, I was told that no prior approval is given; you must be able to justify your travel to Cuba when clearing back into the U.S. If you don't spend any dollars, none of these loopholes are necessary anyway.
        The decision was made. I'd been writing occasionally for the local university newspaper I was planning to launch Southwinds soon. My travelling partner, Margaret Keller, spent her summers travelling in Spanish-speaking countries. As a language teacher, she fills her classroom with crafts and artifacts collected during the summer trips. Meg was new to blue-water cruising, but her passion to share this Cuban adventure superseded the lack of experience.
        Panache, with a crew of two, left Tampa Bay in mid-July, hurrying to the Dry Tortugas' Fort Jefferson anchorage. Without the luxury of an open-ended timetable (we both had to be back by late August) the Gulf Stream crossing was bouncier than need be. We couldn't wait for the trade winds to ease up. Fifteen-knot easterly breeze against the three-knot eastbound Gulf Stream set up a rock 'n roll passage across the emerald river.

The sight and scent of Havana

Marina Hemingway

We had no clearance, no permit. We started calling Marina Hemingway on VHF channel 16 once inside the 12-mile territory. The lights of Havana filled the horizon as the evening twilight faded. The warm breeze carried the scent of Cuba's anise plants miles offshore.
        The first contact came from the Cuban Coast Guard (La Guardia) when Panache was six or seven miles out. They began a helpful dialogue (in Spanish) on VHF, providing points of reference on the shoreline to guide us towards the marina entrance. The land-based navigational lights were dimmed by the city's glow. The approach would have been easy in daylight, or at night on a second visit. There is a shoal area between the sea buoy and marina breakwater entrance. The hazard was marked but not lit (it is now lit), so a small launch was dispatched by the dockmaster to lead us into the customs quay. It was the first of many friendly gestures which weaved their way through our Cuba experience.
        It's 11 P.M. Do you know where your kids, excuse me, the immigration man is? Even with our late evening arrival, the authorities were gracious. Three years cruising Central and South America, and this was the first time the officials took their shoes off boarding the boat. Margaret served brownies and charm, I supplied the paperwork. There were a pile of forms to be completed, but we needed only our passports and vessel documentation. Our Cuban courtesy flag had been hoisted miles offshore.
        The charge for clearing in after hours was nada. $10 each for our visas, nothing more. By midnight we had motored around to the transient area near the tennis courts and showers. The air was pungent with the sounds and smells of the tropics.
        The next morning we arranged for the electrical hookup and completed the clearance with a smiling but business-like woman from the agriculture office. She requested that we not remove any meats or vegetables from Panache. Cuba does not have problems with imported diseases in the cattle or poultry, so the concern was to protect their environment. We lowered the Q flag, and were free to explore Cuba.
        Within the marina complex, there are gift shops and small grocery stores. Most food and liquor prices were at or above U.S. prices. The tourism office at the marina can arrange land cruises and rental cars.
        As guests at the marina, we had full access to the discos, swimming pools and tennis courts. Our visit in July coincided with the anniversary of a revolutionary celebration. For one week, the marina was immersed in nightly open-air dances and vibrant Cuban rhythms.
        There were water taps along the quays next to the electrical boxes. Each required some jury-rigging to adapt to U.S. fittings. Water throughout Cuba is potable, I'm told. Some dive services were available, including filling SCUBA tanks.
        There were charter sport fishing boats based at the marina. Marina Hemingway hosts several international billfish competitions each year. The boat operators were a wonderful source of local knowledge for planning our trip in and out of the barrier reef to the west.
        For major provisioning, there were several large "diplomat" stores between Havana and the marina. With a passport for id, we could shop in these variety markets and found everything we could have desired --Joy soap, Lady Lee green beans, and if you wish, Budweiser and Coke. Many of the food products were imported from Europe and were more reasonably priced than the U.S. goods. Fresh veggies and meats, dairy items, tires for your car - it was all there. Taxis were waiting outside to carry you home to your floating hotel at the marina.

A snapshot of La Habana

Havana is a photogenic large city with its architectural mood carved out of old Spain. We taxied down wide, tree-lined boulevards and through narrow cobbled streets on our first visit to Old Havana (La Habana Viejo). From Marina Hemingway to downtown Havana, a distance of some 10 miles and 20 minutes, the taxi fare was $12.
        Cubans young and old ride bicycles every day."Bikes only"lanes have been designated throughout the city and suburbs. Ring your bell when passing.
        Havana has its tourist spots and historic attractions mingled amongst the living quarters and shops of everyday life in Havana. We sipped mojitos, a favorite drink of Ernest Hemingway, in a pub crowded with visitors from Europe and Latin America.
        The Hotel Internacional, facing the Malecon (Havana's waterfront prominade surpasses St. Petersburg's Stouffer Vinoy in elegant. The architectural styles and room prices are similar. Dinner at the popular Old Havana restaurants, El Floridita and La Bodeguita del Medio, cost $30 to $50 for two with a drink.
        Ours was neither a tourist trip nor a tourist budget - we indulged only once in a restaurant meal. The food was excellent, the portions adequate. Drinks were $1.50 to $4.
        We walked and biked throughout the city to the museums and parks, to our new friend Roberto's tiny loft apartment, and down the side street between Havana and the marina. Day and night, there was never a feeling of insecurity. No one tried to hustle us beyond an exchange of their few words of English for my poorly-spoken Spanish response. Margaret's command of the language and eager smile brought us into the somes of several families. Those bonds of friendship will long remain.

The facts, nothin' but the facts...

If you go to Cuba, prepare to be self-sufficient. Take cash, as banking is generally not an option. Credit cards issued by non-American banks can be used for rental cars, restaurants, and at the tourist hotels.
        The bicycles we brought allowed Margaret and I to travel through the city and suburbs without worrying about the cost. The bikes not only saved us money, but they opened doors into the daily lives of our Cuban hosts. The energy expended pedaling was returned tenfold in the friendships shared by the people we met.
        From my experience, Americans have nothing to fear in going to Cuba. The Cuban government is expanding the tourism industry. The people we met were inquisitive about America. They asked about the riots in L.A., about the crime in Miami, and about the latest movies and music. Even those who had little to share gave us some fruit, a straw hat, or a simple religious token. Nothing was expected in return.

Do you want to visit Cuba?

The decision to go is not easy. There are many reasons to say yes, and a few reasons someone might say no. Nothing has changed officially regarding the U.S. policy and laws. Hundreds, maybe thousands of boats have cleared back into Florida, declaring Cuba as their last stop. Customs apparently found that the laws had not been violated.
        The decision may also involve deeply-held personal and political convictions - those aspects would apply when travelling to many areas of the world that differ from the U.S.